How daunting was it to carry on after Bill Neal died?
It was scary. I had a very good sous chef who had worked with Bill. There was enough on the repertoire to continue it for a while without it being dull. But I knew at some point somebody was gonna have to come in here and take Bill Neal’s place. I was really lucky that Bill Smith was looking for a job and he had worked with Bill Neal and Moreton Neal in the past.
Did the two Bills have a lot in common?
They both are Francophiles. They both grew up with large families, so to speak. And I know in both cases their grandmothers were big influences on them.
You must have very loyal diners.
Yes, very. And we try to make sure that they know what we’re doing on the menu. Bill often sends things out to regulars to try. We try to keep them updated through our website and email newsletter. Regulars have been our bread and butter. Our mainstays.
What do you think of Southern food these days? Will it survive its popularity?
There are many really good chefs who are working in Southern food. I think it will continue to grow and evolve. Bill Smith has been bringing in some Latin influence into the cuisine. I see it as just evolving in a positive direction. I’m kind of excited about where Southern food is going.
You don’t think a fatigue will set in?
No, I hear Bill’s stories from when he goes to Southern Foodways Alliance meetings, and all the people are really excited about the culture of Southern cuisine. It sounds like these people are dedicated. They’re being caretakers but also looking at what’s new.
Crook’s has been part of the education of some pretty amazing chefs over the years, right?
Amy Tornquist of Watts Grocery worked here. She was a baker here. She worked with Bill Neal. Then she went to school in Paris and then came back and started Sage and Swift Catering and then Watts Grocery. Amy’s husband worked here. That’s how they met. Robert Stelling of Hominy Grill worked here. John Currence [of City Grocery] worked here.
How much did the publicity from Craig Claiborne of The New York Times in 1985 change the trajectory of this place?
Bill had written this cookbook, and Claiborne had seen a copy. Being from the South, he noticed that there were a couple of places in this area doing Southern cuisine – Magnolia Grill, Fearrington, Mama Dip’s and Crook’s. So he came down and did an article on all those restaurants. And then he did a separate article on Bill Neal. That, coupled with Bill’s Southern cooking, shot us on the way. Phyllis Richman from The Washington Post started coming down. And I remember one night I was managing, and she was here having dinner with Bill Neal. It wasn’t so busy that night. It was a weekday night. As she was walking out. She said, “Gene, you ought to dig this place up and move it to D.C. because I’d have you busy every night.” This is where we want to be. But I thought that was interesting that she would say that.
What’s your proudest moment?
There have been several. The Craig Claiborne recognition. The James Beard [America’s Classics] Award. Bill Smith’s recognition by James Beard [as a Best Chef – Southeast nominee] those two years. Those are very proud moments. And being here for 30 years. CHM
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